NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE
ON THE
ISLAND OF TRISTAN D'ACUNHA,
by Augustus Earle
IN THE
SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN.
O
On the 18th,there came on a very strong gale from the north, which continued the whole daywithout intermission; and at night we lay to, it still blowing severely. Fromthe 20th we had fine weather and a fair wind; nothing material taking place,and the temperature getting gradually colder. The month of March came in withheavy weather; often obliging us to lower our mainsail, and hoist our trysail;whilst the little sloop laboured very much.
March 6th, wegot sight of Tristan d'Acunha, but a strong S.E. wind prevented ournearing it; and after beating about for four days, in very hazy anddisagreeable weather, we saw 'Nightingale Island;' the fog preventing ourseeing the other two islands, though we perfectly well knew we were very nearboth of them. On the 18th we found ourselves abreast the above named one,bearing W. by S. distant twenty miles; and running down to it with a fair wind,we made Sandy Point, and saw the huts, but no appearance of any inhabitants. Weran down the coast; and until evening the weather was beautiful, the sea smoothas a lake indeed, a dead calm; when suddenly a squall came from the mountains,which very nearly laid us on our beam ends. All was confusion in an instant,the sea heaving up masses of foam in all directions, though not a cloud wasvisible in any part of the horizon. These sudden squalls are called 'Willies,'at least, such is the name given them by the sailors who frequent the island. Bysunset we were blown completely off the land, and passed the night pretty closeto the small island called 'The Inaccessible.'
19th.—Therebeing a severe gale from the north-west, and no islands in sight, we lay to allday.
20th.—We sawland ahead, ran down to it, and when we got within ten miles of it, found itwas 'The Inaccessible;' we then altered our course, and made for Tristand'Acunha, with a heavy wind and sea. After a three hours' run, the hazy weatherpreventing our seeing land, though certain we were close to it, we hove to.
21st.—We had acontinuance of bad, blowing, hazy weather. At noon we obtained sight of theisland, but were kept off by contrary winds till the 26th, when a strongwesterly breeze setting in, carried us down to the land. This was to me a mosthappy event, as I was completely tired of being tossed about so long on a roughsea, and rejoiced at the prospect of spending a few hours on shore.
On the northof this island, a long, low, green point runs a considerable way into the sea;at the end of which is erected a flagstaff; and just round this point issituated Falmouth Bay, a small inlet. Being come abreast of this bay, we sawseveral houses under the hill; and upon one of them was hoisted the Britishflag, a welcome sight to an Englishman! We hove to about a mile from the shore,and soon saw a boat launched from the beach, which presently boarded us; andthese settlers seemed most happy at our arrival, as ships so very seldom cantouch here. They assured Captain Amm he might anchor with perfect safety, aslong as there was no north in the wind; but that the moment it touched thatpoint, he must get under weigh, and be off as soon as possible.
At threeo'clock we anchored half a mile from the shore, opposite Falmouth Bay, intwenty fathom water, with a rocky bottom covered with kelp. Our captain,finding the settlers had abundance of potatoes, agreed to purchase a few tonsfor the Cape market; and as I knew it would take a considerable time to getthem on board, I determined to return in the boat with the men when they leftour vessel: I did so, and took with me my dog, gun, boat cloak, and sketchbook, hoping to be able to add a few interesting drawings to my portfolio, asthis was a spot hitherto unvisited by any artist.
There issomething really terrific in the appearance of this island as you approach theshore. The sea breaks with violence over rocks which are just rising abovewater, and the whole extent of beach is whitened with surf It is unsafe for anyother than whale boats to attempt landing here. On quitting the boat, I found aroad, formed of black lava, cut down the cliff, along which the islanders hadbrought their boat. The cliff is about fifty feet high, and at its summit thereis an extended plain, reaching to the foot of a mountain; and this plain iscovered with a coarse kind of grass, called by the settlers Tussek,which grows in clusters, and is as strong as a small reed. Arriving at thevillage, which consists of half a dozen houses, covered with thatch made ofthis native grass, I found two women, and a number of children, who were allequally delighted to see a stranger amongst them. The houses, and all aroundthem, had an air of comfort, cleanliness, and plenty, truly English; and whichwas highly gratifying to my feelings, from the contrast it formed to those Ihad lately seen in South America.
Theyimmediately brought me a bowl of new milk; after which I sat down to dinnerwith these hospitable people, and they showed every possible kindness andattention to me. In the afternoon the men were all busily employed getting offthe cargo of potatoes.
27th.—The crewwere all engaged in stowing away their fresh freight, while I passed the timein scrambling round the rocks, and making sketches.
28th.—Sostrong a north wind was blowing, that it was impossible to get off in the boat;the sloop remained in the offing.
29th.—As thewind had moderated, I prepared to set off I had purchased some stock, which wasalready placed in the boat, and they were preparing to launch her, to take meon board, when the sloop tacked, and stood out to sea! I concluded she was onlymaking a lone stretch, and waited on the beach some hours; but she stood quiteoff to sea, and I never beheld her more!
I passedseveral days in the utmost anxiety respecting the vessel, for the wind wasblowing tremendously. The surf along the beach exceeded every thing I everbefore witnessed, or could have imagined; and the noise was almost deafening! Therocks and the beach, being composed of black lava, opposed to the snowywhiteness of the foam, produced a supernatural effect, and was, from thecontrast of colour, particularly grand, especially as we were then on theweather side of the island.
31st.—We havenow got fine weather, and the sea is considerably calmed. I still feel the mostintense solicitude respecting the fate of the vessel and her crew: a week haspassed since the sloop disappeared, so I must now give up all hope of herreturning for me; being convinced that she has either borne up for the Cape, orperished in the gale, carrying every soul on board with her to the bottom! Whatan escape may not Providence, in its infinite goodness, have allotted me. Yet,whichever event may have taken place, I am certainly now in a most desperatesituation, and likely to pay very dearly for the indulgence of my curiosity. Iam left, with one of the men from the sloop, on this island, little better thana savage one, with no other preparation than the clothes we happen to have on. Winter,too, is approaching, and there is but a slight chance of any ship touching onthis rough coast so late in the season! However, as we are without anyalternative, we must bear our lot patiently, and endeavour to make the best ofit; look around us, and prepare in the most skilful way we can for our futureresidence.
The chiefperson of our little community (commonly called the Governor) is Mr.Glass, a Scotchman, a ci-devant corporal of the artillery drivers; andhe certainly behaves to me with every possible kindness: nothing within hispower is spared to make me comfortable. I experience from him attention andhospitality, such as are rarely found in higher situations of life. Indeed,every individual seems equally disposed to serve me, and make me reconciled tomy present situation. As to the man who landed with me, he is perfectly happy;he finds himself in the society of his equals, and knows that his pay isaccumulating, during his residence here. My three other companions have allbeen private seamen, who have remained here at different times in order toprocure sea elephant and other oils, to barter with vessels touching here; andthey all partake greatly of the honest roughness of British tars.
Accustomed tobe either in their whale boat, pulling through the most dreadful surf that canbe conceived, or covered with blood and grease, killing and preparing for usethe marine animals who assemble round this island, it cannot be expected theirmanners or appearance should partake much of elegance or refinement, or theirconversation be such as would be tolerated in polished society; but it isaltogether a new scene to me, and I take infinite delight in hearing themrelate their different adventures in their own peculiar seaman's phraseology. Itis a desirable thing, and one only to be acquired by travelling, to be able toaccommodate oneself to the society Providence may throw us amongst.
Of the fairladies of our colony, Mrs. Glass is a Cape creole, and Mrs. White a half-castPortuguese from Bombay: their time is so fully occupied that I seldom seeeither of them; being constantly in the cook-house, which is separated from ourdwelling. Children there are in abundance, all healthy and robust, and just oneyear older than another.
Glass is oneof the garrison the British Government sent here some years since, and whichwas soon after given up; but he and his wife requested that they might bepermitted to remain. On the arrival of the garrison, the only inhabitants theyfound, were an old Italian named Thomas, and a wretched looking half-castPortuguese. They said they were the last survivors of the American partysettled here under Lambat, who, as their story ran, was lost with anumber of men crossing to one of the neighbouring islands; but, from all theintelligence I obtained from Glass, who described this Italian to be a morose,mysterious person, I suspected he and his comrade knew something more of thefate of poor Lambat and his party than they chose to disclose. A story waseasily invented, of all their companions perishing 'at one fell swoop,' and, asa matter of course, the survivors became masters of all the property left onthe island. There was but too strong evidence that these two villainsdespatched their comrades by some unfair means: for when the vessels arrivedhere from the Cape with the troops and settlers, the Portuguese got off quietlyin another vessel; but the Italian, who always had plenty of money at command,remained with the garrison, and, tempted by the easy access his money gave himto the military canteen, he was constantly seen in a state of intoxication; andit was when he used to be half drunk, that he was accustomed to drop ambiguousphrases, and express the greatest horrors respecting Lambat and his companions.He likewise informed Glass that he had plenty of money buried there, and thathe would (some day) show the place where his hoard lay, to that man in thegarrison who pleased him most; thus insuring constant good treatment from themen, each hoping to be the favoured heir; but one day, after a doseextraordinary, he was taken suddenly ill, and expired before he could explainto his companions where his treasure was concealed, though evidently anxious soto do. A universal search commenced after his death; but neither money norpapers have ever been found: and even I, when not better occupied, usedto examine every cranny and hole in the rocks about the houses, in hopes offinding old Thomas's treasure; for Glass said it must be near the houses, as heused to be away but a very short time when he visited his hoard for money. Ionce thought I had really made the discovery; for in a cleft of the rock, in avery remote corner, I found an old kettle stuffed with rags; but,unfortunately, with no other treasure. Glass well remembered the kettlebelonging to Thomas, by the remarkable circumstance of its having a woodenbottom!
A little tothe eastward of the settlement is Falmouth Bay, a dangerous rocky inlet, whichproved fatal to his Majesty's ship 'Julia.' Parts of the wreck are still strewnupon the shore. Amongst the thick grass, beyond the beach, a high pole has beenerected, marking the spot where the remains of the unhappy sufferers wereinterred. The wreck has been of great service to the inhabitants; for theirhouses and fences are principally composed of it.
The cause ofthis spot being so peculiarly dangerous to shipping at anchor is the swellthat sets in before the wind, and which was the occasion of the loss ofthe 'Julia.' The night had been perfectly calm; but at two o'clock in themorning, heavy rollers set in, and she was driven by them into the bay,and, it being quite dark, she was dashed upon a rock: she split in two, andnearly 'all hands' perished.
April24th.—To-day we found the body of a man named Smith, amongst some bushes, whohad been missing nearly two months. The poor fellow had been in a state ofderangement, and, having wandered away from the houses, lost himself, probably,among the high grass, and there perished. The body was in a sad putrid state;and we had to bury it on the spot where it was found. I read the funeralservice over it; all the settlers being present, and behaving in the mostserious and respectful manner during the ceremony. The fate of this poor manwas peculiarly distressing, and furnishes another instance in proof of what ahazardous and desperate profession the South Sea fishery is. I understood thathe formerly commanded a large ship on that service from London, which proveduncommonly successful. The owners, delighted with his good luck (for luck itwas), again sent him out on a similar speculation: but his good fortune forsookhim; and he returned, after an unsuccessful cruize of three years, to hisemployers. In consequence, he was turned off; could not obtain any employment;and, after experiencing every sort of misery in London, was finally obliged toembark as fourth mate, in a vessel which he himself used formerly to command. Itwas stationed off these islands; and Glass frequently saw him. They went fromhence to South Georgia, to kill sea elephants; and, in that miserable highsouthern latitude, they put together the frame of a vessel, which they had broughtout from England for that purpose; and the command of it was given to poorSmith. These vessels are called shallops; and are intended to accompanythe large ships, and bring off the blubber collected on the beach. Theyoccasionally make short trips; but sometimes are compelled to undertake longvoyages, as proved the case with this one; for, missing the ship, after a greatdeal of useless cruizing in search of her, they had to run for Tristand'Acunha, in hopes of finding her there; thus performing a long and boisterouspassage in a little sloop of only fifteen tons, just nailed together, and withscarcely any provisions on board. However, they arrived here safe; but therewas no anchorage or shelter for them. Worn down with fatigue and anxiety, Smithsecured the shallop in the best way he could, and then went on shore andabandoned her. Shortly after, the ship arrived: the captain put fresh hands onboard; and the late commander was so struck with the unfavourable appearance,and bad constructions that might be put upon his abandoning his vessel, that hefled into the woods in a state of distraction; nor did he return to thesettlement till ship and shallop had both left the island. It was shortly afterthis that I arrived; and he was then in a state of most deplorable insanity;but still his misfortunes seemed to weigh as heavily as ever upon him. The ideaof his having abandoned his charge seemed always present to his imagination. Atlength, quite exhausted with mental suffering, he perished in the manner I haverelated.
Since myarrival, I have been unanimously appointed chaplain; and every Sunday we havethe whole service of the Church of England read, Mr. Glass acting as my clerk:and it is really a gratifying sight to behold the cleanly and orderly state inwhich the men appear; all the children are dressed in their best, and they allpay the utmost attention during Divine service. I am also schoolmaster to theelder children, who are pretty forward in reading; and their parents are soanxious for their improvement, that it gives me the greatest pleasure to beable to assist them in so laudable an undertaking; though, to be sure, we aresadly at a loss for books, paper, pens, and all other school materials. Theirparental exertions (poor fellows) would not avail much; the state of literaturebeing but at a very low ebb amongst them; but what little information theyhave, they all endeavour to teach the children. One of the men lamented to methe other day, that he had so little book larning, although he once hadhad the advantage of seeing the King's own printing-office at Portsmouth!
Our governor,Glass, who is the original founder and first settler of this little society,was born in Roxburgh. In the course of many long conversations I had with him,seated in his chimney corner, I learned that, in early life, he had been agentleman's servant in his native town; and that he had an old aunt settledthere, an eminent snuff and tobacco vender; but whether she claimed descentfrom, or affinity with, the celebrated lady of the same name and occupationwhom Sir Walter Scott mentions in 'The Heart of Midlothian,' as being so greata favourite of the then Duke of Argyle, I could not discover. Indeed, he didnot seem to know much about his ancestors,—an uncommon thing even with thelowest of his countrymen. Having (while still quite a youth) been crossed inlove, he enlisted in the artillery drivers; that corps suiting him best,from his well understanding the management of horses, and being an excellentrider. He related many amusing stories of his first and only campaign inGermany, which was an unsuccessful one. His favourite theme was his variousadventures at the Cape. He gave me the whole history of his promotion from aprivate to a corporal; for he rose to that rank. I was always pleased with hisdescriptions; for there was such an air of truth and candour in them, asconvinced me of his probity and honour; as well as the high terms in which healways spoke of his officers, and of the service in which he had for so manyyears been engaged. He was of a happy disposition; for he seemed to forget allthe disagreeables of his profession, and only remembered the comforts andpleasures he experienced during the whole time he was a soldier; and he alwaysspoke in enthusiastic raptures of the government, which had so comfortablyprovided for old veterans. Glass considered himself particularly fortunate inhis military career, by having been generally employed by an officer as hisservant; and, being an excellent shot, a good horseman, and withal an honest,good-humoured fellow, was nearly the whole of his time with his master, on somehunting expedition: then, as the game at the Cape is very different from thetimid, harmless description of that in England, he had to recount some perilousand fatiguing expeditions. One, in particular, I well remember his relationof—it was a circumstance well known at the Cape, and I have heard the accountfrom several persons since. He and his master (accompanied by severalgentlemen) were on a hunting expedition; and as bucks were in great plenty,they were tempted to remain longer than usual in the bush, and to penetratefurther into the jungle than they intended: in the midst of their pursuit, alarge full grown tiger sprung on the foremost of the party, and instantlybrought man and horse to the ground. The gentleman, who was thus attacked, wasa large, powerful, and intrepid man, and fairly gave battle to the monster; andcontrived, in a most wonderful manner, to keep him at bay, till the party hadtime to come up and fire into the beast, at the imminent risk of shooting theperson whom they were endeavouring to save: but there was no time todeliberate, or to be nervous: they fired; the tiger was killed, and thegentleman's life saved, though he was dreadfully lacerated, having been forseveral minutes actually in the fangs of the enraged animal.
As aconvincing proof of Glass's integrity, and his noble qualities as an honest andfaithful servant, he once gave me the account of the death of his master, whomhe had served for many years; and showed me a letter he had written a few hoursbefore he died, giving his servant such an excellent character as any man mightbe proud of receiving; and, at the same time, bequeathing him the whole of hisproperty. Poor Glass was much affected when he gave me these particulars. Itwas in consequence of the general good character he bore at the Cape, that hewas chosen to accompany the expedition sent from thence to Tristan d'Acunha;where he, with fifty Hottentots, formed part of the garrison. Glass alwaysspoke in high terms of the corps of Hottentots he served with, as menpeculiarly adapted for artillery drivers, from their firm and perfect seat onhorseback, their fearless (helter-skelter) sort of character; since they would,he said, dash with their horses and guns over roads and precipices that wouldmake a white man tremble to look at; added to which, he highly praised theirinvariable good humour, but stated the great, indeed almost only, drawback totheir merit to be, their proneness to drunkenness, which no punishments nordisgrace could eradicate.
Another proofof Glass's good sense was manifested in his wishing to remain here, when thegarrison abandoned the island. 'Why, you know, sir (said he to me), what couldI possibly do, when I reached my own country, after being disbanded? I have notrade, and am now too old to learn one. I have a young wife, and a chance of anumerous family; what could I do better for them than remain?' So he requestedand obtained his discharge; and the few articles which the officers did notconsider worth taking back again to the Cape, were given him: but the greatesttreasure he obtained was a bull, a cow, and a few sheep, which stocked hisfarm; and, with his economy, and the care he bestows upon them, I have no doubthe will, eventually, become the possessor of extensive flocks and herds.
The next in rank(for even here we must have distinctions made) is a man of the name ofTaylor, and he, being the oldest sailor, steers the whale-boat; and, as isusual amongst all gangs of men engaged either in fishing, sealing, or anyboating work of that description, those who are at the helm assume asuperiority over their comrades. The circumstance that induced this man tosettle here is very curious, and shows, in strong colours, the peculiarities ofseamen, and the very original notions they sometimes get into their heads. Duringthe time the garrison occupied this island, it was occasionally visited by thesquadron stationed at the Cape, and Taylor and a comrade of his belonged to aschooner acting as a tender to the Admiral. They sometimes served on shore; andonce paid Glass a visit after the soldiers had abandoned the settlement. Itthen struck them, that it would be a most admirable plan to go home; and, afterbeing paid off, to purchase a collection of things which would be useful to thefarm, and come out again to join Glass. They went home, and were paid off; andI have no doubt fully intended laying out their money in the laudable way theyhad planned at Tristan d'Acunha; but, alas! the temptations on shore were toostrong for their resistance. When all was gone, they determined to put theirresolutions into practice; and accordingly these two men marched off to theAdmiralty, to consult 'The Lords' on the subject. When they arrived there, theyrequested to be introduced; and as the Board was then sitting, they wereformally ushered into their presence. They immediately informed their Lordshipsthat they had each served upwards of twenty years in the navy, and wereentitled, by length of service, and by their wounds, to a pension; that theywould willingly wave that right, and had come to them to beg a passage to theisland of Tristan d'Acunha. Taylor used to describe this interview with theLords of the Admiralty with a great deal of humour, and the mirth they excited,and the numerous questions put to them by Sir George Cockburn, who, to Taylor'sinfinite delight, addressed him by the title of shipmate; for he hadserved under him some years before. They told their Lordships all theparticulars of Glass's establishment, the wish they had to retire from theworld, and the comfortable prospect that island offered them of independence;and that at a time of peace, when it was almost impossible for the most prudentand industrious to gain their bread. So humble, so just a request, wasinstantly granted; and all the gentlemen composing the Board cordially wishedthem success, and assured them that the first man-of-war bound round the Capeshould land them, and all their worldly goods, on this island. Accordingly,they were put on board the 'Satellite,' bound to India. Thus were they added toGlass's company; and though a little addicted to the characteristic growling ofold sailors, they jog on pretty smoothly, their quarrels seldom going furtherthan swearing a little at each other. He and his partner built themselves adecent dwelling; and, being single men, dignified their abode with theappellation of 'Bachelors' Hall.' After a few years, Taylor's companion gottired of the solitude and sameness of the scene, and went off in a ship thattouched here. His comrade, at the time I became a member of this society, was adapper little fellow, as Taylor used to say, 'half sailor, half waterman, andhalf fisherman; born at Wapping, served his time in a Billingsgate boat, andoccasionally vended sprats;' whilst, as a proof he was no pretender, hesometimes delighted us by going over the whole of those melodies which thefishwomen of the streets of London make familiar to one's ear. The name of thisworthy was Richard; but he was always called Old Dick. He prided himselfon being 'a man-of-war's man,' having, at the close of the war, entered theservice, and was on board a ten gun brig; but every attempt he made at anautical yarn was always instantly put a stop to by old Taylor, withsuch epithets of contempt that he was obliged to desist; but his localknowledge of Deptford, Bugsby's Hole, the Pool, &C. was trulyextraordinary, and was his strong hold, from which his old hickory-facedcompanion never could dislodge him. But Dick had another equally strongposition, which formed a part of his history quite incomprehensible to hiscompanions, and which he usually resorted to when driven from the field inattempting to relate his adventures while in the Royal Navy; and thatwas, his having actually served as a dragoon in the army of BuenosAyres: but here Glass always 'came athwart his hawse;' and the contempt he hadfor his dragoonship was equally as strong as that of Taylor for hisseamanship. However, Dick described an army such as Glass could form no ideaof; the half-naked, wild warrior of South America being so totally a differentkind of soldier to what he had been accustomed to see. Poor Dick's story was atrue and a melancholy one. By one of those sudden acts of treachery and crueltywhich have been so common on the coast of South America, the vessel to which hebelonged, while quietly engaged in picking up seal on the shore, was seized byan armed republican cruiser, on pretence of her occupation being unlawful, andthe crew (for whom Dick had had the honour of cooking) and himself were lodgedin durance vile; and the only chance they had of escaping from perpetualimprisonment was by entering the republican army; and they were all enrolled inwhat was then considered a very dashing dragoon regiment. These sailor dragoonsproved a rich subject to Dick: he would amuse our humble fireside for hours byhis description of the disasters which constantly befel these horse-marines,without clothes, without food, and almost without arms; and the manoeuvres theyresorted to in order to keep themselves on their saddles, and also to preventchafing. After a curious sort of campaign, these sailors made their escape. Somegot safe to Monte Video, and were received on board an English vessel; but thecause of Dick's being on the island, was his being some time after wreckedhere. He sailed from London in a small sloop going on a sealing trip, andobtained his old berth of cook. After cruizing for some time on the greatPacific Ocean, without obtaining a single skin, they touched here in hopes ofbeing more successful; but got on shore, and the vessel was totally wrecked. Dick,preferring the sort of life led here to that he had been accustomed to, andtired of 'seeking the bubble reputation,' joined Glass's party; and on all ourboating excursions he resumes his old occupation of cook.
The last, andyoungest of our party, is named White. There is nothing very particular in hishistory. He is an excellent specimen of a young English sailor; and has alltheir characteristic warmth of feeling, and desperate courage, added to asimplicity almost childish. He was always the companion of my rambles wheneverhe could be spared from his share of toil, his manner of expressing hisadmiration of what he saw being highly amusing. He was one of the crew of the'Blendenhall' Indiaman, which was wrecked on a neighbouring island. He hadformed an attachment to one of the servant girls on board; and, in all themiseries they had endured after that event, had been her constant protector andcompanion; whilst gratitude on her part preventing her wishing to leave him,both chose to remain here; and he and his Peggy made the second couple marriedon this island, and no two people can be happier.
The cows,oxen, sheep, and poultry, all thrive here; but the pigs, owing to their eatingso much kelp or sea-weed, have a very fishy, unpleasant taste. Fish is mostabundant on this coast, and of various kinds. A few days since, I and two mentook advantage of its being a smooth sea, and went out in the boat. We caughtas fast as we could haul them out of the water; and, amongst other fish, a kindof mullet, which was delicious.
May 1st.—Theday being remarkably fine, I walked out to one of the beaches, about four milesfrom our settlement; but the road was most difficult to get through—fernsgrowing up as high as the shoulders, and broken stumps continually striking theshins; but as there are no briars or thorns of any kind growing on the island,you may lay hold of every sort of bush without fearing to prick your fingers,when you find yourself falling. We saw numbers of sea elephants sleeping on thebeach. They were all large, fat, and unwieldy.
Two years agothe 'Blendenhall' free trader, in trying to make this island, the weather beingfoggy, and it blowing hard, ran on a rocky island twenty-four miles to thewestward. She was close to the land before she saw it, and then falling quitecalm, and heavy rollers setting in, she struck; and soon after fell in pieces;the forepart (providentially the end where the crew and passengers had crowdedtogether for safety) reached nearest the shore, and the greater part savedthemselves; but naked, and on an uninhabited island, their situation was mostdeplorable; part of the wreck washing on shore, and, amongst other things, somebales of cloth, which was quickly converted into clothing; and in thismiserable state they continued for four months, no one at Tristan d'Acunhaknowing any thing about them. The sailors at length succeeded in making aflat-bottomed boat out of the wreck, and in that frail machine ventured to tryto cross to this island; but these brave fellows were never seen or heard ofmore!
Still notdespairing, those who remained constructed another machine, and another partyvolunteered to make the attempt to reach some inhabited spot; and the effortsof these intrepid seamen were crowned with success. They brought their frailbark safe into Falmouth Bay, and had the happiness of seeing the houses of thesettlement, though quite by chance, as they were not aware that any Englishwere living here. Mr. Glass and his men immediately prepared their whale-boat,and returned with one man for a guide; and after several dangerous trips,succeeded in rescuing the whole party from their perilous situation; afterthree months' residence with Glass and his people, they obtained a passage tothe Cape, in a brig which fortunately touched here from Buenos Ayres, all butWhite and his wife, who chose to remain here. Thus were the settlers the happymeans of rescuing forty persons from one of the most dreadful situations thatit is possible for human beings to be placed in!
When the firstsettlers arrived here, they brought with them several cats; some of whichunfortunately escaped into the bushes, and have increased so rapidly, that theyhave become quite a nuisance. Poultry had run wild, and the climate was socongenial, that they multiplied prodigiously, and were to be found in all partsof the island in abundance; but since the cats have been introduced, the poorfowls disappear rapidly. Indeed, these wild cats come so near the settlement asto attack and carry off the domestic poultry. I was out a few mornings ago,when the dogs caught one upon the beach. The nature and appearance of theanimal seemed quite changed; all the characteristics of the domestic cat weregone: it was fierce, bold, and strong; and stood battle some time, against fourgood dogs, before it was killed.
There is anabundance of goats on the sides of the mountains, but too shy and swift of footto give much chance of getting a shot at them.
Immediately atthe foot of these mountains (and they are nearly perpendicular) is a slip ofgood land, gradually sloping down towards the sea; but it is cut suddenly fromthe beach by an abrupt precipice of about fifty feet; so that from every partis a fine commanding view of the ocean. This slip of land (between themountains and the beach) is three quarters of a mile in width, and five or sixmiles in length; nearly level, and (except where the settlers have cleared afew acres) it is covered with a thick underwood, and small trees, allevergreens, easily cleared, and the soil is capable of producing any kind ofvegetable, but particularly favourable for the culture of potatoes, which arethe finest I ever tasted, and form the chief article of food as well astraffic. From the Peak, in the centre of the island, to the sea shore, theearth is cut into gullies, apparently by torrents. Those in the plains aredeep, and cut straight to the sea. Two of these gullies, which are near oursettlement, are, I should imagine, fifty feet wide, and as many deep, filledwith huge masses of black lava. All the rocks on the island are of the samedismal hue, which gives a most melancholy aspect to all its scenery. Thesettlers call these ravines gultches.
9th.—Yesterday,the day being particularly fine, Glass, his eldest son, and myself, took thesmall boat, and pulled out about two miles from land, and commenced fishing. Therebeing a great swell, our boat was terribly knocked about, and the poor boy wastoo sick to be able to render any assistance; but his father and I caught agreat number of large fish called blue fish, weighing twenty or thirtypounds each. Before we could return we were caught in a squall; though, when weset forth on our expedition, it was a beautiful, calm, and clear morning; theweather here changes so suddenly. As a proof of which, Glass informed me, hiswife once went off to pay a visit on board a ship; and while she was there agale sprung up, the vessel had to stand off, and it was ten days before theycould again make the island. Another time Mrs. White had a similar misfortune;the ship was driven off for three weeks, and very nearly lost!
Our house is(and all are built nearly after the same model) a complete proof of thenationality of an Englishman, and his partiality for a comfortable fire-side. Thoughthe latitude is temperate, each room is furnished with a noble fire-place; andin what we call 'The Government House,' we meet every night, and sit round alarge and cheerful blaze, each telling his story, or adventures, or singing hissong; and we manage to pass the time pleasantly enough.
Looking outfrom my abode, no spot in the world can be more desolate; particularly on ablowing night. The roar of the sea is almost deafening; and the wind rushingfuriously down the perpendicular sides of the mountains, which are nearly ninehundred feet high, and are masses of craggy rocks, has the most extraordinaryand almost supernatural effect. No sooner does night set in than the air isfull of nocturnal birds, whose screams are particularly mournful; and thencomes the painful reflection, that I am so many thousands of miles from everyhuman haunt, and separated from all my friends and family, who are in totalignorance of where I am, or what has become of me. But I force myself tostruggle against dismal thoughts, unwilling that my comrades (who do everything in their power to console me) should suspect how much I suffer; so I takemy seat by the fire, shut out the night, pile on a cheerful log, and tell mytale in turn. I must confess that, amongst my companions, I never see a sad ordiscontented-looking face; and though we have no wine, grog, or any otherstrong drink, there is no lack of jovial mirth in any of the company.
Fortunatelyfor me, when I came on shore, I brought with me some of my drawing apparatus,which now, in my forlorn state, has been the source of much amusement andimprovement; making the time not hang so heavily on hand as it otherwise woulddo.
20th.—For thelast ten days we have had a succession of wet, cold, uncomfortable weather,which has kept me much within doors; but constantly looking out, mostanxiously, for the sight of a sail; yet, being winter, I fear there is butslight chance of such an event; and if we even do see one, should the wind beblowing high, she will not be able to approach the island.
A few daysago, it blowing a strong easterly wind at the time, Glass and I went to theeast end of the island to burn the underwood and grass, in order to makepasturage for the cattle. This grass grows astonishingly fast, and if notburned occasionally would soon cover every thing. It is from eight to ten feethigh, and so thick that it is almost impossible to get through it. We set fireto it in several places, and the wind catching the flame, it spread withdreadful and astonishing rapidity, running up the sides of the mountain with aroar like that produced by volleys of musketry; and it was accompanied with somuch flame and smoke, as to make the spectacle truly sublime.
28th.—Yesterdaybeing a fine morning, accompanied by two of the men, I determined to ascend themountain. As several parties had before gone up, they had formed a kind ofpath, at least we endeavoured to trace the same way; but it requires a greatdeal of nerve to attempt it. The sides of the mountain are nearly perpendicular;but, after ascending about two hundred feet, it is there entirely covered withwood, which renders the footing much more safe; but in order to get to thewood, the road is so dangerous, that it made me almost tremble to think of it;slippery, grey rocks, and many of them unfortunately loose, so that when wetook hold, they separated from the mass, and fell with a horrid rumbling noise;here and there were a few patches of grass, the only thing we could depend uponto assist us in climbing, which must be done with extreme caution, for theleast slip, or false step, would dash one to atoms on the rocks below. Bykeeping our eyes constantly looking upwards, and continuing to haul ourselvesup, by catching firm hold on this grass, after an hour's painful toil, wegained the summit, where we found ourselves on an extended plain, of severalmiles' expanse, which terminates in the peak, composed of dark grey lava, bareand frightful to behold. We proceeded towards it, the plain gradually rising,but the walking was most fatiguing, over strong rank grass and fern severalfeet high, with holes concealed under the roots in such a way, that no possiblecaution could prevent our occasionally falling down into one or other of them,and entirely disappearing, which caused a boisterous laugh amongst the rest;but it frequently happened, while one was making merry at the expense ofanother, down sunk the laugher himself.
A death-likestillness prevailed in these high regions, and, to my ear, our voices had astrange, unnatural echo, and I fancied our forms appeared gigantic, whilst theair was piercing cold. The prospect was altogether very sublime, and filled themind with awe! On the one side, the boundless horizon, heaped up with clouds ofsilvery brightness, contrasted with some of darker hue, enveloping us in theirvapour, and, passing rapidly away, gave us only casual glances of thelandscape; and, on the other hand, the sterile and cindery peak, with itsvenerable head, partly capped with clouds, partly revealing great patches ofred cinders, or lava, intermingled with the black rock, produced a mostextraordinary and dismal effect. It seemed as though it were still actuallyburning, to heighten the sublimity of the scene. The huge albatross appearedhere to dread no interloper or enemy; for their young were on the groundcompletely uncovered, and the old ones were stalking around them. This bird isthe largest of the aquatic tribe; and its plumage is of a most delicate white,excepting the back and the tops of its wings, which are grey: they lay but oneegg, on the ground, where they form a kind of nest, by scraping the earth roundit; after the young one is hatched, it has to remain a year before it can fly;it is entirely white, and covered with a woolly down, which is very beautiful. Aswe approached them, they clapped their beaks, with a very quick motion, whichmade a great noise. This, and throwing up the contents of the stomach, are theonly means of offence and defence they seem to possess; the old ones, which arevaluable on account of their feathers, my companions made dreadful havocamongst, knocking on the head all they could come up with. These birds are veryhelpless on the land, the great length of their wings precluding them fromrising up into the air, unless they can get to a steep declivity. On the levelground they were completely at our mercy, but very little was shown them, andin a very short space of time, the plain was strewn with their bodies, one blowon the head generally killing them instantly.
The object ofmy comrades for taking this dangerous and fatiguing journey was neither toprocure the feathers of the albatross, nor to admire the sublime scenery. Goats,of which there are thousands on these plains, were the ostensible cause oftheir coming; and a very fine dog was with us for the purpose of running themdown. We soon surprised a flock, which made (as they invariably do) for thepeak; but our dog soon separated one, which we caught, killed, and left on theplain, while the dog ran after others. A very large black he goat was selected,which gave him battle, and defended himself courageously for some time againstus all; but we finally conquered him, and added his body to our other prize. Mytwo companions were now quite delighted with their success; and though they hadto carry these heavy carcases for a considerable way over the plains, not amurmur was heard from either: when they had got them to the edge of theprecipice, we took out their insides, and stuffed them with fern, then tumbledthem down, and they reached the bottom without much difficulty; occasionallythey rested a moment on some projection, but the weight finally cleared thebushes and rocks, and the bodies were found by us on reaching the level.
After spendinga most fatiguing and exciting day, we got safely down at night; the menperfectly satisfied with their goats and albatross' feathers, and I equally sowith the number of my sketches.
They informedme, that the very last time they had ascended the mountain, on their return,one of the party got too close to the precipice, without being aware of it, andfell down several hundred feet; they found the corpse the next day, in a mostmiserably mangled state. They interred it in the garden, near their settlement;and placed at the head of the grave a board, with his name and age, togetherwith an account of the accident which caused his death; and a pious remark tothe reader, that it happened on a Sunday,—a dreadful warning toSabbath-breakers. The people all say, they never more will ascend the mountainson that sacred day; indeed, from all I have seen of them, they pay everyrespect to the duties of religion which lies in their power.
31st.—This dayhave I experienced the mortification of seeing a brig pass the island; but thewind was blowing to that violent degree as to preclude all hope of speaking toher, though, for several days previously, the weather had been remarkably calm.I seem to be doomed to disappointment.
June 6th.—Veryunsettled weather, gales blowing for some hours, and then becoming calm andmild. This is now the middle of winter, the winds are changeable andboisterous. I saw to-day, for the first time, what the settlers call a podof sea elephants. At this particular season these animals lay strewed about thebeach, and, unless you disturb them, the sight of a man will not frighten themaway. I was determined to get a good portrait of some of them, and accordinglytook my sketch-book and pencil, and seated myself very near to one of them, andbegan my operations, feeling sure I had now got a most patient sitter, for theywill lie for weeks together without stirring; but I had to keep throwing smallpebbles at him, in order to make him open his eyes, and prevent his going tosleep. The flies appear to torment these unwieldy monsters cruelly, their eyesand nostrils being stuffed full of them. I got a good sketch of the group. Theyappeared to stare at me occasionally with some little astonishment, stretchingup their immense heads and looking around; but finding all still, (I supposethey considered me a mere rock,) they composed themselves to sleep again. Theyare the most shapeless creatures about the body. I could not help comparingthem to an over grown maggot, and their motion is similar to that insect. Theface bears some rude resemblance to the human countenance; the eye is large,black, and expressive; excepting two very small flippers or paws at theshoulder, the whole body tapers down to a fish's tail; they are of a delicatemouse colour, the fur is very fine, but too oily for any other purpose than tomake moccasins for the islanders. The bull is of an enormous size, and wouldweigh as heavily as his namesake of the land; and in that one thing consiststheir only resemblance, for no two animals can possibly be more unlike eachother.
It is a verycurious phenomenon, how they can possibly exist on shore; for, from the firstof their landing, they never go out to sea, and they lie on a stormy beach formonths together without tasting any food, except consuming their own fat, forthey gradually waste away; and as this fat or blubber is the great object ofvalue, for which they are attacked and slaughtered, the settlers contrive tocommence operations against them upon their first arrival, for it is wellascertained that they take no sustenance whatever on shore. I examined thecontents of the stomach of one they had just killed, but could not make out thenature of what it contained. The matter was of a remarkably bright greencolour. They have many enemies, even in the water; one called the killer, aspecies of grampus, which makes terrible havoc amongst them, and will attackand take away the carcase of one from alongside a boat. But man is theirgreatest enemy, and causes the most destruction to their race: he pursues themto all quarters of the globe; and being aware of their seasons for coupling andbreeding, (which is always done on shore,) he is there ready with his weapons,and attacks them without mercy. Yet this offensive war is attended withconsiderable danger, not from the animals themselves, they being incapable ofmaking much resistance, but the beaches they frequent are most fearful anddangerous; boats and boats' crews are continually lost; but the value of theoil, when they are successful, is an inducement to man, and no dangers willdeter him from pursuing the sea elephant until the species is extinct.
Whales aboundround this island, but the dreadful weather which generally prevails is muchagainst the fishery. Many whalers have been out here, but have been obliged toabandon the pursuit, after sustaining serious losses by casualties among theirmen and destruction of boats.
June 26th.—Forthe last week the weather has been a succession of tempests, one immediatelyfollowing upon another, and scarcely any possibility of going out of the house;but this morning a considerable change has taken place for the better, though atremendous swell is on the sea. At ten o'clock A.M., saw a sail, which appeared to be standing towards the land: allemployed making signal fires. She fell to leeward of the island, and there layto, evidently anxious to speak with us; but being to leeward, our boats durstnot venture off. so after laying to for about four hours, she filled and stoodoff on her course. This is the second mortification of the same kind I haveexperienced. To-day the vessel came so near, that we could distinguish herdecks crowded with people, and we imagined her to be a Botany Bay ship; and ifso, she was most likely bound for the Cape, the very place I wished to arriveat. If any thing could add to my anxiety, at being shut up a prisoner inTristan d'Acunha, it is thus to see chances thrown in my way of being released,and not being able to avail myself of them; none but those who have experiencedsimilar disappointments can judge of my sufferings, nothing that ever beforeoccurred to me so completely depressed my spirits. And I feel now the sickeningsensation of 'the hope deferred.' From one week's end to another I stationmyself upon the rocks, straining my eyes with looking along the horizon insearch of a Sail, often fancying the form of one where nothing is, and when atlength one actually presents itself, and the cheering sound of 'a sail! asail!' is heard, it puts 'all hands' into commotion, as all these islandsettlers are anxious to communicate with every vessel that passes,—we see shenotices our signal fires,—she lays to for us,—but an insurmountable barrier isstill between us,—all attempts to launch the boat are vain,—she passes on hertrackless way,—again the horizon becomes vacant, and again I retire to mylodging with increased melancholy and disappointment!
A few dayssince, walking along the beach, I discovered a number of penguins just landed;their extraordinary appearance at first startled me, they do not fear theapproach of man, but stand still and suffer themselves to be taken or knockedon the head. Those I saw are called the Macaroni Penguin. They are about thesize of a common duck; they stand bolt upright; the back and head are of aglossy black, the belly, neck, and part of their legs a beautifully clearwhite, and from the head, just over the eyes, is placed a bunch of brightyellow feathers, hanging down on each side the face, which gives the animal ananimated and beautiful appearance; it is from these fantastic feathers (Ishould imagine) they receive their name of 'Macaroni.' The eyes are verybright, large, round, and sparkling; they have two small flippers, which in thewater serve as fins, and on shore in place of wings, not to fly withal, butmerely to assist in swimming and running. I caught one of them, and took himhome, in order that he should sit for his picture, but had to take especialcare of his beak, which was large and strong, and which he used mostunceremoniously, making desperate pecks at my hands, and I received severalsevere wounds before I reached my dwelling with my captive. They are very heavyand fat; but too fishy for eating, unless in a case of great necessity, whichtoo often happens to the people of this island; but their eggs are quite asgood as those of a duck, and are most abundant during the season, and as theyare laid upon the sands, they are easily procured, and prove a very comfortableaddition to our frugal repast.
July 15th.—Theweather has been for some time very fair, and the wind moderate, but again Ihave encountered the excitement of hope and despair, another vessel has passed,and must have seen our signals, and yet kept too far out to sea to afford theleast possibility of our boats reaching her! Nothing else has occurred tochange the monotony of the life I now lead.
I hadyesterday an accident which nearly cost me my life. I was fishing off therocks, which I do every day that the weather win permit me. The part on which Istood was at each returning wave covered; but wetting me no higher than theknee, I did not consider that circumstance attended with any danger, and as Iwas catching fish very fast I did not like to move away from my station; butsuddenly came a wave, of so much superior size, as nearly hurried me within it,and swept me instantly off the rock, into the sea; encumbered as I was, with alarge bag of fish hanging round my neck, and a huge pair of (Tristan d'Acunhamade) boots on. As I was alone, I was certainly for some time in imminentdanger; twice I was swept back in attempting to reach the shore, but byswimming and struggling with all my strength and skill, I, at length, after acomplete ducking, and considerable fright, reached the shore in safety.
29th.—Lastweek Mrs. White was confined of a very fine girl, and in a few days after, shewas out, and employed in her usual occupations, looking just as well as before.
Whales are nowplaying about, opposite our settlement, in great numbers; and, in theirgambols, seem almost to jump out of the water. They raise themselves up, sothat the greater part of their bodies is seen, and then fall down (like aperson bathing), and in their plunge send up a tremendous foam, and make anoise which may well be compared to distant thunder.
August1st.—Yesterday I and one of the dogs went on a goat-hunting expedition. Clamberingup a steep hill, we caught sight of a flock in the rear; and, after a finechase, and some difficult scrambling, I succeeded in shooting a fine female,which I carried on my shoulders back for home consumption. These animals arehere particularly fine, and in good condition; but their flesh has a strongflavour of celery, which is to me very unpleasant: this herb grows wild, andmost luxuriantly on the sides of the mountains; and the animals beingparticularly fond of it, eat a great quantity. I have no doubt there are manyepicures who would consider the goat's flesh much better on account of itspeculiar flavour, and that if once brought into fashion, it would be reckoned agreat delicacy.
2d.—This dayanother brig hove in sight of the island. 'All hands' were again employed inmaking fires; and, its being a remarkably fine and calm day, I entertained themost sanguine hope that we should have been able to board her; butnotwithstanding all our endeavours, she kept at so great a distance from theland as made it totally impracticable to reach her! I begin, with reluctance,to alter my long-cherished opinion of the seafaring part of my species, and tothink they are not much incommoded with humanity; for three vessels have passedin sight of our signal-fires, and their commanders must have known full wellthere were some poor creatures in distress on this desolate spot, and by ourefforts, might judge of our anxiety to be relieved; but two out of the threewould not put themselves the least out of the way to enquire into the nature ofour misfortunes. They knew not but there might be several persons perishing ofwant, when they might have brought relief and comfort by altering their coursea very little, and easily have bore down abreast of our settlement, withoutincurring the smallest risk!
The precarioustenure of a seaman's life, and his liability to encounter similar accidents,would, one might naturally imagine, make him most anxious to relieve every oneplaced in my present situation; but, no: for here, in one of the most remoteparts of the globe, separated from the rest of the world by thousands of miles,they see signals of distress; they know on that spot there is some poorcreature in want of their assistance; that assistance and relief they have itin their power to bestow, by merely giving themselves some little labour; andyet two ships have now passed during fine weather, and their captains have notput themselves in the smallest degree out of their course, even to enquire intothe nature of our distress! This does not correspond with the exalted charactergiven of the British sailors in both song and story; nor with thegenerally-received opinion of their humanity and valour. I would have ventureda considerable wager that the first vessel that passed would at least haveattempted to communicate with us, on sight of our signals: even curiosity, onewould think, would be a sufficiently strong motive to induce them. I cannothelp fearing there is as much selfishness and meanness amongst 'the sons ofNeptune' as amongst their brethren on shore; and this opinion has beenstrengthened, by anecdotes I have heard from Glass and his companions. I hopethe following account is without parallel. I shall not give the name of thevessel, or her commander; but should these pages ever meet his sight, I hopesome feeling of shame may prevent his again acting in so unfeeling a manner. Aseaman, more than any other Christian, should ever bear in mind, 'To do toothers as we would they should do to us.'
It is nownearly a year since they had sickness amongst the settlers, and were in greatdistress for want of a few medicines; when a vessel hove in sight. Theylaunched their boat, and pursued her, and after a long and very fatiguing pull,at length came up with her, and made their wants known. The first questionasked by Captain—was, 'How am I to be paid for them; what money have youbrought with you?' Money is unknown at Tristan d'Acunha: Glass had none. Aftervarious demurs, a few doses of Epsom salts were produced, but not given up tillGlass had signed a receipt for them; and, notwithstanding their being so manymiles from land, and had been tugging at the oars so desperately to gain theship, and had many hours of hard toil to pull back again, no refreshment wasoffered to any of the party, not even a glass of grog from any of the sailors:and this from a countryman, and meeting unexpectedly so far from home!
The 8thproving a very fine day, and several of our party being in want ofshoe-leather, we launched the boat to go in quest of a bull elephant. After pullinga few miles, we came to a beach where these creatures resorted; and, landingthrough a high surf, and hauling the boat up, we proceeded to business, andsingled out a monstrous creature. My companions boldly attacked him withlances, thrusting them repeatedly into his sides, he throwing himself aboutfuriously, and struggling and rolling towards the sea; but he being soft andfat, the lances sharp and long, they perforated his heart; the blood flowing intorrents, and covering the men. just as he had obtained the edge of the surf,to make his escape from his merciless enemies, he fell, and expired. Hemeasured sixteen feet in circumference, and twenty in length!
It isremarkable that these unwieldy masses of animated nature, so seeminglyhelpless, and incapable of exertion, should be delicate and ardent in theiramours. In the early part of the spring, the females come out of the sea, forthe purpose of propagating and bringing forth their young. The males are alwayson the beach to receive them; and the moment the ladies appear, the males makea terrible snorting noise, the signal for them to commence a dreadful battle,in order to determine which shall be the champion of the strand. Themonsters raise themselves up on their flippers, and throw themselves on eachother, and as their mouths are wide, and armed with formidable teeth, thewounds they give and receive are of a terrific nature. Glass once saw two ofthem fighting on this very spot, in which one struck the eye of his opponentcompletely out. When this fighting has been continued till one remains 'masterof the lists,' he becomes the gallant of all the females, who lie around,seemingly in fearful anxiety till the battle is ended. The authority of theconqueror is absolute amongst his mistresses, and no bashaw ever assumed moreimportance in his seraglio than he does: though, like most other conquerors,his dominions are liable to invasion, and the frontiers are often entered bysmall parties of the discomfited foe. The bulls which have been driven off,prowl around, and often smuggle off a frail female; who, if her lord is engagedin dalliance with another, and his attention diverted from her, receives thehomage of the banished and unfortunate kindly; but if, by chance, they are seenby the enraged master, he sends forth a dreadful noise from the snout, andshuffles after the disloyal couple, and, if he cannot come UP with his rival,takes vengeance on the fair, by inflicting on her several wounds with his sharpteeth. His empire is seldom of long duration; either some one of the vanquishedenter the fists with him a second time, or some more powerful adversary risesfrom the deep: he then must once again try the conflict, and, being wounded andweakened by former encounters, he (like his betters) must give place to astronger opponent: his ungrateful females lavish their favours on the new comeras on the first. Thus the beach is, during the whole of that particular season,one scene of love and war, presenting a savage picture of what is going onamongst the human race; excepting that in these creatures we only trace therude outline: it is not filled up, as with us, by fraud, dissimulation, andfalsehood!
The whole bodyof the creature they had killed was covered with scars, but particularly aboutthe neck; there the cuts and scams crossed each other exactly like the curiousneedle-work in an old-fashioned quilted petticoat. Some of these wounds werestill open and bleeding, so that we imagined him to have been a champion onseveral occasions; but we proved too subtle for him at last, and made captureof his skin and blubber: the latter weighing three quarters of a ton. Thisvaluable article, my comrades, with incredible labour, difficulty, and somedanger, got into their boat; and the skill and address used in getting off thebeach in such a situation, and through such a strong surf, proves what men canaccomplish when prompted by necessity or the hope of gain.
16th.—Thismorning, at day-break, perceiving a schooner close to the landing, we all randown to the beach, and got the boat to the water's edge; but again the sea rantoo high, and was too rough to allow of our attempting to launch it. This was agrievous disappointment, as the vessel beat up abreast of us, evidently anxiousto communicate. For several days past the weather had been moderate, the windcalm; and on our side of the island, 'the lee,' even the very day before, hadbeen one of the finest that heaven ever shone upon; but this very morning, whenso favourable a chance presented itself for my escape,—when the commander ofthe schooner evidently wished to give relief,—the wind suddenly changed roundto the north, bringing our settlement on the 'weather side,' which, with arising sea and tremendous surf, completely separated me from the proffereddeliverance. Though so anxious was she to give us every possible chance ofassistance, that she stood in so close as to render her situation dangerous. Mayhappiness, long life, and pleasant cruises be the lot of those unknown, butkind-hearted men! To complete my misfortune, the unfavourable wind soonincreased to a severe gale, which lasted three days without intermission, andwhich completely prevented the vessel hanging round the island. This is thefourth which has now passed since I have been left here. God only knows whetherI am ever to be relieved, or what is to become of me. I find increasingdifficulty in rallying my spirits to meet my companions with cheerfulness.
24th.—My timedrags heavily on. As long as my paper and pencils lasted, they were a source ofinfinite amusement; but now, alas! all are entirely used, and sketches made onboth sides of my paper. A few blank leaves of some old tracts left here for theuse of Glass and his comrades, dirty and sea-stained, are all that I have left,and must reserve to record my melancholy thoughts upon; but as they are thelast specimens of paper remaining on the island, I must economise, and am thuscut off from one of my chief sources of occupation. Fishing and hunting, myonly pastimes now, are both most fatiguing here; and my old clouted shoes arenot in a very fit state to allow me to go clambering up rough rocks: and yet Iam compelled; and as some of the goats are generally within sight, Ioccasionally have a shot at them, though their extreme shyness, and theruggedness of the mountain passes, render the approach to them very difficult. Iam sometimes, however, fortunate enough to bring one back with me. When thewind is favourable, or affords a hope of the possibility of a vessel passing, Iam afraid of venturing too far from the settlement, lest I should lose anychance of leaving the island: yet I ought, and am most thankful when reflectinghow much worse my situation might have been had I fallen amongst a set ofselfish, unfeeling men, instead of these kind-hearted, worthy creatures. I aman uninvited pensioner on their hospitality, with but a slight chance of myever having it in my power to prove my gratitude: and yet, they are allunremitting in their exertions to cheer my spirits, and make my situationcomfortable. Glass is as eager in watching for a sail as myself, and says (andI fully believe him), that should a vessel arrive, the master of which refusesto take me without payment, he shall have all his cattle and stock of potatoes,rather than I shall be disappointed of a chance of returning to my family. Whilespeaking of Glass, I may be permitted to record a circumstance highlycharacteristic of national feeling, and of that love of country which neverforsakes a Scotchman. As he is an experienced tailor, as well as an excellentoperative in various other trades, I proposed to him, when my clothes werecompletely worn out, to make me a full dress suit out of my tartan cloak. Heagreed to do so; but still my clothes were not forthcoming. One evening, on myreturn from a fatiguing day's hunting, Glass came to me with a most melancholyface, and began,—'It is no use holding out any longer, Mr. Earle; I reallycannot find in my heart to cut up that bonnie tartan. I have had it outseveral times, and had the scissors in my hands, but I cannot do it,Sir; it is the first tartan that ever was landed on Tristan d'Acunha,and the first I have seen since I left Scotland; and I really cannot consentto cut it up into pieces.' I replied, he was most welcome to keep the cloak forhis own use as it was; but that, as I could not make my appearance, even atTristan d'Acunha, quite in a state of nature, he must contrive to make me apair of trowsers out of any thing he might happen to have amongst his stores. Hisface instantly brightened UP, and I was soon after equipped in a costume which,even here, excited no small curiosity: the front of these 'Cossacks' consistingof sail cloth, and the back of dried goat's skin, the hair Outside, which theyall assured me I should find very convenient in descending the mountains. Ilaughed heartily when I first sported this Robinson Crusoe habiliment. 'Nevermind how you look, Sir,' said my kind host; 'his Majesty himself, God blesshim! if he had been left here, as you were, could do no better.'
Exercise andtemperance we all believe to be greatly conducive to health. Five months'residence on this island has convinced me of their wonderful effects on theconstitution,
Here our foodis of the coarsest description: bread we never see; milk and potatoes are ourstanding dishes; fish we have when we chance to catch them; and flesh when wecan bring down a goat. In order to procure materials to furnish forth a dinner,I go early in the morning to the mountains; and the exertions I go through makeme ready to retire to bed by eight o'clock in the evening, when I enjoy thesoundest sleep; and though certainly I have nothing here to exhilarate myspirits,—on the contrary, much to depress them, as anxiety for absent friends,who are ignorant of my fate, and my irksome situation, thus shut out from theworld,—yet, in spite of every disagreeable, I never enjoyed so calm and even aflow of spirits, which is doubtless caused by my abstemious living, and theexercise I am obliged to take. These last four months' experience has done moreto convince me of the 'beauty of temperance' than all the books that ever werewritten could have done. I now begin to think the life of an anchorite was notso miserable as is generally imagined by the gay and dissipated, and that hisquiet enjoyments and serene nights may well be balanced against their feverishslumbers and palled appetites. The temperate man enjoys the solid consolationof knowing he is not wearing out his constitution, and may reasonably lookforward to a happy and respected old age; while the votary of sense soon losesall relish for former enjoyments, and pays the penalty of early excesses in abroken and diseased frame. He finds himself helpless, and has the mortifyingreflection that he has only himself to blame; that he has piloted himself intothis misery, contrary to his own common sense and the admonition of hisfriends; that no helping hand can save him; whilst the memory of his formerenjoyments aggravates his humiliating situation; and pain and sorrow are theonly attendants to conduct him to his last home!
30th.—Thisbeing a tolerably fine morning, we started off early for Elephant Bay toprocure the skin of a pup, in order to convert it into caps. We found, lying onthe beach, three bulls, with about a dozen cows, each with her young onealongside of her. The females seemed dreadfully scared on our approach, as ifthey knew the nature of our errand. The bulls made off immediately into thesea; but the females only retreated to the water's edge, roaring out mostboisterously. The pups were nearly all black: they kept a continued barking,very much resembling the yelping of a dog. They are unable to take to the watertill they are some weeks old, so their dams had to leave them to our mercy, andremoved to some distance till we had despatched one of them: though the extremedistress manifested by its mother made me repent having disturbed them. Thiscreature, which is generally so timid that she plunges to the bottom of theocean at sight of the human race, and which, unless caught when asleep, it isalmost impossible to approach, so much are they terrified at the appearance ofman; yet when their helpless young are around them, their very nature seemsquite altered: maternal affection conquers their fears, and they remain on thebeach, as though to protect them. If they had been provided with any means ofdefence, they would not have suffered us to destroy their pups with impunity;but their vast strength and bulk are of no service to them on shore. They liein a helpless mass; and the only danger to be apprehended is getting betweenthem and the sea; for in their struggles to gain that element they may passover, and crush you. Though their mouths and teeth are most formidable inappearance, yet their extreme unwieldiness prevents their committing muchdamage with them, except on each other. A man can always most easily get out oftheir reach. The most disagreeable occurrence of this day was, that, about tenO'clock, it came on to rain most violently and incessantly; and as our roadhome, for about ten or eleven miles, lay through a thick wood, tangled withgrass as high as my shoulders, the whole party were completely drenched; but I,who have now only a few rags to cover me, felt truly deplorable. I am obligedto be content with the few 'odds and ends' of clothing the settlers can spareme: and people in their condition are not expected to possess very extensivewardrobes.
September10th—In this wretched island, where there has been a succession of colddrizzling rain, boisterous winds, and severe gales, we now hail with sincerepleasure the evident signs of returning spring. The feathered inhabitants ofthe deep begin to muster in couples on the sides of the mountains, and fill theair with the sound of their noisy courtship. Nature, ever true, points out tothese creatures the exact time when they are to commence the pleasing cares ofproviding for their young. In this insulated spot we have a number ofamphibious animals, whose manners are very singular, and, to an inhabitant ofthe Northern hemisphere, highly interesting.
12th.—This daywe visited what they call a 'penguin rookery.' The spot of ground occupied byour settlers is bounded on each end by high bluffs, which extend farinto the sea, leaving a space in front, where all their hogs run nearly wild,as they are prevented going beyond those limits by those natural barriers; andthe creatures who, at stated periods, come up from the sea remain inundisturbed possession of the beaches beyond our immediate vicinity.
The weatherbeing favourable, we launched our boat early in the morning, for the purpose ofprocuring a supply of eggs for the consumption of the family. We heard thechattering of the penguins from the rookery long before we landed, which wasnoisy in the extreme, and groups of them were scattered all over the beach; butthe high thick grass on the declivity of the hill seemed their grandestablishment, and they were hidden by it from our view. As we could notfind any place where we could possibly land our boat in safety, I and two moreswam on shore with bags tied round our necks to hold the eggs in, and the boatwith one of the men lay off, out of the surf I should think the ground occupiedby these birds (if I may be allowed so to call them,) was at least amile in circumference, covered in every part with grasses and reeds, which grewconsiderably higher than my head; and on every gentle ascent, beginning fromthe beach, on all the large grey rocks, which occasionally appeared above thisgrass, sat perched groups of these strange and uncouth-looking creatures; butthe noise which rose up from beneath baffles all description! As our businesslay with the noisy part of this community, we quickly crept under the grass,and commenced our plundering search, though there needed none, so profuse wasthe quantity. The scene altogether well merits a better description than I cangive,—thousands and hundreds of thousands of these little two-legged erectmonsters hopping around us, with voices very much resembling in tone that ofthe human; all opening their throats together; so thickly clustered in groupsthat it was almost impossible to place the foot without despatching one ofthem. The shape of the animals, their curious motions, and their mostextraordinary voices, made me fancy myself in a kingdom of pigmies. Theregularity of their manners, their all sitting in exact rows, resembling morethe order of a camp than a rookery of noisy birds, delighted me. Thesecreatures did not move away on our approach, but only increased their noise, sowe were obliged to displace them forcibly from their nests; and this ejectmentwas not produced without a considerable struggle on their parts; and, beingarmed with a formidable beak, it soon became a scene of desperate warfare. Wehad to take particular care to protect our hands and legs from their attacks;and for this purpose each one had provided himself with a short stout club. Thenoise they continued to make during our ramble through their territories thesailors said was, 'cover 'em up, cover 'em up.' And, however incredible it mayappear, it is nevertheless true, that I heard those words so distinctlyrepeated, and by such various tones of voices, that several times I started,and expected to see one of the men at my elbow. Even these little creatures, aswell as the monstrous sea elephant, appear to keep up a continued warfare witheach other.
As thepenguins sit in rows, forming regular lanes leading down to the beach, wheneverone of them feels an inclination to refresh herself by a plunge into the sea,she has to run the gauntlet through the whole street, every one peckingat her as she passes without mercy; and though all are occupied in the sameemployment, not the smallest degree of friendship seems to exist; and wheneverwe turned one off her nest she was sure to be thrown amongst foes; and, besidesthe loss of her eggs, was invariably doomed to receive a severe beating andpecking from her companions. Each one lays three eggs, and, after a time, whenthe young are strong enough to undertake the journey, they go to sea, and arenot again seen till the ensuing spring. Their city is deserted of its numerousinhabitants, and quietness reigns till nature prompts their return thefollowing year, when the same noisy scene is repeated, as the same flock ofbirds returns to the spot where they were hatched.
After raisinga tremendous tumult in this numerous colony, and sustaining continued combat,we came off victorious, making capture of about a thousand eggs, resembling insize, colour, and transparency of shell, those of a duck; and the takingpossession of this immense quantity did not occupy more than one hour, whichmay serve to prove the incalculable numbers of birds collected together. We didnot allow them sufficient time, after landing, to lay all their eggs; for, hadthe season been further advanced, and we had found three eggs in each nest, thewhole of them might probably have proved addled, the young partly formed, andthe eggs of no use to us; but the whole of those we took turned out good, andhad a particularly fine and delicate flavour. It was a work of considerabledifficulty to get our booty safe into the boat—so frail a cargo—with sotremendous a surf running against us. However, we finally succeeded, though notwithout smashing a considerable number of the eggs.
October1st.—To-day I complete six months' miserable imprisonment on this wretchedisland, and have no more prospect of getting off than I had the first week thatI came on shore. Instead of becoming reconciled to my situation, I think I amlately more and more wretched: every species of pastime or occupation I couldthink of or invent, I have exhausted. I sit for hours together watching thehorizon, with the faint hope of catching sight of a vessel, and thinking of myfriends in England. Previous to the return of Spring, my gun was a source ofamusement, though my game, generally speaking, was no better than gulls andvarious kinds of aquatic birds: but now, even that employment is denied me. Thisbeing the breeding season, they strew themselves in all directions about theisland; and as they place their nests in the most exposed situations, it totallydestroys any pleasure I might have in the pursuit of them; for, howeverunaccountable, it is the fact, that the principal pleasure of shooting is theexcitement, the uncertainty, and difficulty of following and bringing down yourprize. Now, that I am so surrounded with birds, that I might easily take a wagon load with my hands, I do not feel the slightest inclination to touch any ofthem.
I go almostevery day in pursuit of goats, of which I have taken great numbers; but theintolerable fatigue and risk are almost too much for me, and I am getting stillmore unwilling to go far from the settlement, from a nervous fear that a shipmight heave in sight during my absence. We have now had fine weather for aconsiderable time, except the morning of the 2d, which proved blustering with aheavy sea, and surf breaking on the beach. At about eleven o'clock, a ship hovein sight, and passed quite close to the island; when abreast one of our housesshe hoisted Dutch colours; we all imagined her to be a corvette. It is needlessto repeat the impression another vessel passing and leaving me still a prisonermade upon me. Let those who are always complaining bitterly, and lamenting overthe merest trifle, be placed in my situation, that they may know what it is tofeel, as it were, the very acme of disappointment. Of this fact I amquite certain, that ever after this painful sojourn, I shall look on ordinaryvexations and troubles with the greatest and most philosophic composure!
On the 11th,the weather being apparently settled, and all their potatoes being planted,Glass determined to have a grand goat hunt on the summit of the mountain; andpersuaded me, notwithstanding my determination not to go far from home, to jointhe party. All our fire-arms, ammunition, and dogs were put in requisition forthis formidable event. At daybreak we started, and at about twelve o'clockreached the top of the mountain; we had just gained a glimpse of three gangs ofgoats, and were laying down our plan of attack, when suddenly a cloud came overus, which completely enveloped us, and we were at once struck, like the men ofSodom and Gomorrah, blind and helpless, groping and stumbling like men in thedark! From the hour of the day, we knew there was no chance of its clearingoff; we were in a moment wet to the skin, and left on the summit of this horridprecipice. We had to grope and feel our way, for we could not distinguish threeyards around us, till we came to that part where we generally had descended,every instant running the hazard of being precipitated down the rocks, whichare several hundred feet in depth. After wandering several hours, cold, wet,and hungry, we at length reached the plain in safety, and the only game we hadobtained, were some young albatrosses. These birds I had seen five monthsbefore, sitting on their nests, and they had never moved away from them. Theyremain there for a year before they can fly, and during that long period theyare fed by the mother. They had greatly increased in size and beauty since myfirst visit to them. The semblance of the young bird, as it sits on the nest,is stately and beautiful. The white down, which is its first covering, givingplace gradually to its natural grey plumage, leaves half the creature coveredwith down; the other half is a fine compact coat of feathers, composed of whiteand grey; while the head is of a dazzling, silvery white. Their size isprodigious, one of them proving a tolerable load. Upon skinning them, on ourreturn, we found they were covered with a fine white fat, which I was told wasexcellent for frying, and other culinary purposes; and the flesh was quite asdelicate, and could scarcely be distinguished in flavour from lamb. Besides ouralbatross, the dogs caught some small birds, about the size of our partridge,but their gait was something like that of the penguin. The male is of a glossyblack, with a bright red, hard crest on the top of the head. The hen is brown. Theystand erect, and have long yellow legs, with which they run very fast; theirwings are small and useless for flying, but they are armed with sharp spurs fordefence, and also, I imagine, for assisting them in climbing, as they are foundgenerally among the rocks. The name they give this bird here, is simply 'cock,'its only note being a noise very much resembling the repetition of that word. Itsflesh is plump, fat, and excellent eating.
24th.—Feelinga great depression of spirits, I persuaded one of the men (White) to accompanyme in an excursion to the hills, to have a hunt after the goats. When we wereabout half way over the plain, we discovered some fresh hog's dung, an evidentproof that one of these wild animals was in the neighbourhood. These creaturesbeing rather more formidable than the game we were in pursuit of, we had to bemore circumspect, and cautious in our approaches. I put a new flint into mygun, and took charge of it myself; White, who had hitherto carried it for me,not understanding the use of fire-arms. Our dog soon took the scent, andfollowed to its den, which we were made aware Of, by his furious barking. Theplace to which our dog led us was full of high grass, higher than either of ourheads; and we heard the monster rustling it violently about, and charging thedog; but not being able to see where our enemy was, we were both muchintimidated; for myself I confess I was greatly alarmed. I heard this creaturechamping its tusks close to me, and yet it was entirely concealed! I clamberedup a little eminence, and obtained a sight of the animal's back, or rather ofits bristles, as they were erected, while keeping our dog at bay. I took asteady and deliberate aim, fired, and down the animal fell. It proved to be awild boar of enormous dimensions, one that the settlers had often hunted, butwhich had hitherto escaped. We had some difficulty in getting the carcase home,and had to return for assistance, as it required two of our strongest men tocarry it, weighing between three and four hundred weight.
November8th.—This morning, at nine o'clock, saw another brig at a great distance in thehorizon; observing her anxiously, perceived she was standing along land,without showing any signs of approaching our island; but, it being a fine day,we determined to try to cross her bows; accordingly we launched, and pulled inthe direction of the vessel for two hours; but then losing sight of her, andthe weather getting squally, we were compelled to return, and, in pulling back,got caught in a heavy squall; and it was with the greatest difficulty we gotsafe to our settlement, having run the risk of being blown to leeward of theisland. Thus another vessel is added to my melancholy list; and I think thatevery succeeding disappointment proves severer than the last.
29th.—Thismorning, at eight o'clock, observed a ship to leeward of the island, working uptowards our settlement: all hands were instantly employed getting the boatready to launch,—for they never tire of their exertions in my behalf, and alltake the greatest interest for my safe return to my own country. After thevessel had made two tacks to windward we launched, and had a narrow escapethrough a heavy surf, but we succeeded in boarding her, about twelve o'clock!
The reader,who has accompanied me through the detail of my various disasters, willimagine, better than I can describe, what were my sensations of joy andgratitude on finding myself once more actually on board an English vessel,surrounded by my countrymen! She proved to be the 'Admiral Cockburn,' bound forVan Diemen's Land, Captain Cooling commander. Though my personal appearancemust have been truly deplorable, no sooner was my sad story made known, thanevery hand was held forth to give me cordial welcome; every one opened hischest to accommodate me with clothes of every description, and I was sooncompletely new rigged.
I was almostovercome with the various sensations that came crowding on my mind,—humblethanksgiving to the Almighty,—sincere gratitude to Glass and his companions,for their unremitting kindness, notwithstanding all the trouble I had giventhem,—and now feeling that I was about to part from them for ever, without itsbeing in my power to show my gratitude, except in words!—added to all this werethe attentions and generous treatment I was then receiving from entirestrangers!
A mostextraordinary circumstance must wind up this eventful story; which, if recordedin a romance, would be thought unnatural. Conversing, the following day, withCaptain Cooling, and telling him of my extreme anxiety respecting the welfareof my friends, of whom I had not heard for so long a period, and the anxiety Ishould still have to undergo, as one more year must be spent in uncertainty,before I could possibly receive letters from England, I found him to have been latelieutenant on board his Majesty's ship 'Adventure,' commanded by my brotherCaptain W. H. Smyth; that he had sailed with him for several years, during thetime he was making his well known survey of the coasts and shores of theMediterranean, undertaken by command of the Lords of the Admiralty. He informedme, that previous to the ship's having been paid off at Woolwich, a breakfasthad been given on board by my brother, at which my mother, sisters,—in shortall those for whom I was most deeply interested,—had been present; and that hehad seen them all in good health and spirits only a few weeks before he leftEngland!
THEEND.
Paintings of Tristan Da Cunha by Augustus Earle
Earlepainted a number of water colours of Tristan da Cunha. These are at the NationalLibrary of Australia (NLA), Canberra, as part of the Nan Kivell Collection. Details(NLA catalogue number, picture title, size as height times width, NLA imagenumber) are given below. Online images of these water colours are available atthe